Les Comtes is, of course, one of the greatest of all-Chardonnay Champagnes, its fruit sourced from the finest Grand Cru sites of the Côte des Blancs. Blue chip provenance includes the villages of Avize, le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant; the best of the best in other words. Or, doubly appropriate, given its luxuriant gustatory profile; la crème de la crème. 5% of the wine is aged in wood before Spring bottling and the ensuing lengthy somnolence wherein the alchemical process of autolysis weaves its patient magic over a decade.
2000, for all the sound and fury equated with the millennium, is a relatively forward vintage, captured here by rich creamy flavors. Fresh almonds, vanillin and verbena are balanced by a generous biscuity, spicy brioche character and then a firm and discretely indulgent finish. Poise and power are powerfully poised….. this is clearly a very noble count, one which we are advised to try with tuna carpaccio with truffle, which sounds like a very sensible idea.
|Champagne Style||blanc de blanc|